Hiking the Sand Dunes

The Great Sand Dunes National Park is pretty amazing.  I was there back in 2010 I think and went back this month with visiting family.

what you see as you approach the park

As we drove up, I was slightly disappointed, they looked so small from my memory.  But it is pretty nestled up against the mountains.

But I remembered how difficult it was walking up them, and how I wanted to go farther but we weren't prepared.  At that time, I didn't know about elevation sickness, and we did this the day after we arrived in Colorado.  We also only had one water bottle between the two of us.  So, I prepared a little more for this trip.  I told my family to start drinking water before they flew out, it was not on the itinerary until day 3 or 5...so that would help.  I also got a few extra camel backs.  Originally it was scheduled earlier in the day when the sun wasn't as strong...but it ended up being midday the day, I'd figure it out.

Medano Creek

We arrive at the park and the Medano Creek was wider than I thought.  Some family seemed annoyed with me that they had to cross this and didn't want to get their shoes wet.   Two went back to get flipflops...but how far can you walk in hot sand in flipflops?  The others crossed the creek in their sneakers no complaints, and a handful of smarties took off their shoes walked across and put them back on.  It was only about 1 - 3 inches deep in certain areas.

Probably doesn't look as steep as it was

The walk to the beginning of the sand dunes was a bit away from the parking lot.  A handful of my group did their thing at the closest dunes.  I left one water pack with them and the rest of us carried on.  It takes a while to walk across the sand...and which of the boys were pushing their limits and out challenging each other to climb not across the crests, but up vertical slopes...so that took a while.  They climbed up....I ended up climbing horizontal to meet them...which I thought would be faster than hiking up the crests, which would have zigzagged back around and would have taken too long to the parched kids.

The highest dune in the park is Star Dune at 750 feet.  I'd say that my brother-in-law and a nephew made it to 725 feet to one of the peaks.   I probably made it 680 feet or so...but stayed behind with some of the other kids who were exhausted.

Then we headed back down.  Going down was easier than going up of course.  I wish I thought to bring/rent those sand boards because it looked fun...and cardboard didn't really work so well.  There is a restaurant/visitor shop right before the entrance that rents them....you don't need to go as far as Alamosa first.

Our little sand hike took about 2 hours.  Our trip ended right before the afternoon rain.  I wish we got there earlier so we had more time...but it was another fabulous trip!  One I know the family will talk about for a while.

Tower Arch Trail and overviews at Arches NP

I originally signed up for a hike at Fiery Furnace at Arches National Park.  The park service offers this hike for $10 (in addition to park entry fees) but books up months in advance.  Since I planned my trip only a month out, taking the tour with the park rangers was not an option, but several tour companies offer this tour for about $85-90 with a smaller group of people and have more availability on shorter notice.  I struggled with paying $85 for a hike, but all the reviews I read sounded incredible and thought since I was going alone, it would be great to see part of the park I normally wouldn't.

When my friend decided to come along, I called the tour company and they said no problem getting an extra permit, but alas, when we arrived the day of for the hike, they did not have permits for us.  I was pissed, naturally, and part of my "new york" came out, fine, I couldn't go on the hike, but what happened to contacting me prior to my arrival?  Anyway, so the guy who turned me away told me about Tower Arch trail, which is 7 miles off the main paved street that goes through the park.  He said I'd like the trail because it was terrain unlike I've ever seen.  

We stop at several overlooks (courthouse towers, balanced rock, and one other) before arriving at Salt Valley (dirt) road leading to the trail.  There was only one other car there that pulled in right after us, and that group soon passed us.

Tower Arch

The trail was a good one; but certainly not terrain I've never hiked before, as the guide implied.  It starts with some stairs and inclines, then goes through a valley, a view of the Marching Men then up and through sand and soon after you reach the arch.  It isn't shady, so it gets hot, I drank 2.5 liters of water round trip.  While the elevation gain is only about 100 feet, it is up, down, up, down, up. 

Tower Arch is a 92 foot span arch, which I believe was the arch used for publicity when the park first opened.  We stopped here for a small picnic lunch and then headed back the way we came, just as the thunder started to roll in.  On our way out, we passed two other small groups on their way to the arch, so this trail is definitely off the beaten path.

After we finished our trail, we figured we'd check out some of the arches and headed north to Devils Garden trail head.  I didn't look at the map or factor being there so long, so we didn't carry our water, but I wish we had.  The day grew very hot and I started dragging from exhaustion and thirst.  The paved path to Pine Tree Arch and Tunnel Arch was easy enough and we continued on to Landscape Arch, which has the longest span of any arch in North America at 306 feet.  We stopped for a quick view at Lower Delicate Arch viewing area so my friend can see one of the most famous arches and we left the park, exhausted.

Canyoneering Morning Glory / Ephedra's Grotto

I was in Moab for a day back in 2008 and with this trip, I wanted to be sure that I experienced something different, especially if I was taking a solo trip.  I signed up with Red River Adventures to canyoneering/hiking Morning Glory / Ephedra's Grotto, the thought of rappelling kinda scared me, I did indoor rock climbing once about five years ago, and the first climb and rappel were scary, but I got used to it by the end, I was hoping that little bit of experience would help me with this, since instead of climbing up a wall, you are going down it, a lot less work.   But, naturally, I still panicked.

The first rappel - 85 feet

We start the hike by going over petrified sand dunes to get to our first of the two rappels was.  The first was a 90 foot drop through a classic water carved chamber that was quite narrow towards the top before opening up at the bottom.  Our tour guide set up all the ropes and attached himself so he could belay us from above.  He went over how to 'brake' by the position of our hands and the rope and ideally how to go down smoothly.   Walking backwards over the cliff is slightly terrifying at first.  I didn't look down, just straight ahead at my feet against the wall.  I kept taking deep breaths while slowly moving the rope through my hands to slowly decent and next thing I knew, I was on the ground.  Hands shaking a bit, but I was so proud of myself and was really glad I signed up for this excursion.

We exit this area through a small slot and need to scramble through rocks to get to a more open area.  Here our guide went to set up for rappel number two and we had a moment to explore a grotto.

Second rappel, 120 feet mostly free hanging

The second rappel was next to Morning Glory Bridge (243 feet span) and was a 120 foot drop down, with about 20 feet at the top to walk down and the rest was a free hanging drop.  Our ropes were attached to a stone pile and a tree, not anchored into the wall like the first.  Going over the side, I slipped and dangled until I was able to readjust my feet against the wall.  This area was more open and having just did the first one, I was slightly more comfortable, but yet a little worried what the free hanging part was going to be like.  Within moments the wall slipped back and very slowly I maneuvered down.  Sadly, I didn't really take the time to enjoy the view behind me, which many say is pretty, but focused on the fear and adrenaline and my accomplishment of having done this.  Since I was the first one down, I played photographer for the rest of our group and helped them release their ropes when they got to the bottom.

The hike out was on the Negro Bills Trail, which was about 2 miles crossing over, several times, a small stream with cottonwoods and willow trees and next to sandstone cliffs. Our guide pointed out where the poison ivy was, rock formations, soils, erosion, and other interesting information along the way.

I am so glad I tried this.  Would I do it again?  Yeah, I would...but I would want to go indoor rock climbing prior to get 'ready' so I could enjoy the views more next time around.

Canyonlands

I was in Moab in 2008 but didn't get to Canyonlands National Park so it was a must see this time around.  Canyonlands is divided into three sections, Island in the Sky which is the most popular, the Needles about 60 miles south of Moab and the Maze which has no paved roads.  You can't pass through any of the districts within the park by car, you have to drive all the way around, which could take 2 to 6 hours.

Enjoying the view

My first stop was to the Needles District because it is less frequented by visitors and from what I heard, the hikes were better there than in the Island of the Sky.  I didn't really plan anything in particular, so I looked at the suggested short hikes in the newspaper I got at the pay station and selected the Slickrock Trail which is 2.4 miles and they claim 2 hours; I'd say we did the trail in 3.5 hours.  This was the first 'real' hike my friend ever did, so we went at a very slow leisurely pace.  My friend saw her first cactus, and had many other firsts.
The trail is an easy walk over sandstone and offers four 'view points' with each being more beautiful than the next, if that is possible.

Needles

The first over look offers views of six shooter peak, Elaterite Butte, Cathedral Butte, Ekker Butte, the Needles, La Sal Mountains and the Abajo Range.  Although this was within minutes of starting the trail, this is where we had a small picnic lunch.  The second view point looks over Upper Little Spring Canyon, where they claim you have a good chance of seeing big horn sheep; we didn't see any.  At the third viewpoint you see Lower Little Spring Canyon.  And the fourth viewpoint, is the most spectacular and there is a short path off this that requires a little more climbing, but it is well worth it.

Island in the Sky view

The following day we headed to Island of the Sky mesa, which is the northern part of the park, we were only here about 2-3 hours because of other plans, but we still were able to see magnificent views due to all the pullouts and over looks.  The mesa is over 1,000 feet above the surrounding terrain.

the Royal Arch

The Royal Arch is located in the Flatirons.  I drove to Chatauqua Park and met a meetup group by the ranger station.  I was a little nervous going into this hike, being rated moderate to strenuous and I knew there were lots of stairs.  Before I moved to Colorado, I never had any breathing problems, but now, I think I have asthma so the hikes and snowshoeing turn out to be less fun as I struggle to catch my breath.  But, with an upcoming trip, I figured I needed the warm up.

I went from being in the front of the pack at the beginning to the last one within 20 minutes of our hike, and last I stayed all the way. I was essentially hiking alone, which is fine when you can't maintain conversations anyway.  I stopped for a lot of breaks and sips of water.  The elevation gain was 1,205 feet with a lot of 'stairs'.

It took me 80 minutes to get to the arch.  It was pretty, but crowded, not just with the meetup group (who apparently had a long lunch up there) but also with lots of other hikers who passed me along the way.  I ate a bar, took a few photos, rested about 10 minutes and then the group headed back down.   I was able to talk to a handful of people on the way down, and down only took about 20-25 minutes.  I am glad I went, and for the first hike of the season, it will only get better.

The trail is 3.2 miles round trip, very popular, and a good hike.  I suggest you give it a try!

Info

Maroon Bells & Crater Lake

Maroon Bells...the most photographed mountains in Colorado.  I can understand why.  It is easy to get to, there is a lake which offers a nice reflection and well, you have the mountain, what more does a person what to capture the essence of the moment?

During peak time, you must park your car in the parking area and take the bus up to Maroon Bells...I was there midweek in late September and was able to drive up.  The fee for driving in is $10, but I had the America the Beautiful National Park / Recreation Pass so I didn't have to pay.  The drive up to the parking lot was pretty, with the Aspens changing - even with it drizzling.  I was happy to be driving slow at the speed limit to take it all in.  The parking lot was quite full, I found a spot, but they had rangers telling people where to park to make the most of the room.  There are also two sets of restroom facilities.

Maroon Lake & Maroon Bells

From the parking lot to Maroon Bells was a very short walk.  There were so many people all around the lake taking pictures.  I snuck between a few people and grabbed a few shots.  It was drizzling and very cloudy, so I figured I'd walk around and maybe it would clear up before I got back to Maroon Lake.

Start of the trail

I continued around the lake on the path and saw a sign for a trail.  OK, so I didn't read the map that the lady in the fee collection area gave me yet.  I figured, sure why not, it is cloudy and rainy...why not take a walk.  Many people didn't leave the lake - but just seeing the Maroon Bells wasn't enough for me, I wanted to take advantage of the area now that I was here.  The trail started off as a dirt trail among the trees and it gained elevation.  I had to stop several times to catch my breath.

You will reach a clearing that overlooks the lake from the opposite side.  Many people only hiked to this area and did not continue up to crater lake.  The view was beautiful from this angle too.

Trail gets rocky

The dirt/small rock path continues up and then starts changing to a rocky path for a good portion of rest of the way to the lake.  As it just rained, part of this trail was very muddy.

Crater Lake was pretty.  It started to hail.  I spent maybe 10 minutes resting, had a quick snack and taking pictures of other people.

Crater Lake

Then I headed back down the same way I went up.  Of course going down is faster, but with the rain and hail and slick leaves, I kept a cautionary pace (don't want to fall or sprain an ankle when you are by yourself). There were a few people on the trail going up and going down.

When I got back to the Maroon Bells viewing area, it really cleared out....and it was also much more foggy and cloudy that the few pictures I took - I realized where much worse than earlier - with the top half barely visible.

I had my tripod in the car...I could have spent the time taking nicer pictures at the beginning...but I didn't want to carry it up the hike...and I am glad I didn't because my round trip hike was 3.6 miles round trip, gaining about 500 feet elevation (it seemed like more!).  Carrying water, a few jackets, 2 cameras and a few snacks was plenty for me.  And I did change my jackets a few times because the weather changed so quickly.

Grottos Trail

Grottos Trail #2180 is off Highway 82 (about a mile from Weller Lake Campground and 9 miles from Aspen).  There was a nice size parking lot with restroom facilities.  This hike/parking was free.

Ice Cave

I started out crossing the bridge and following the sign for the ice caves.  The rocky trail was easy and brought me to the ice caves.  Since I was here in late September, there was no ice in the cave, but water...I can imagine how neat it would be to see this crevice filled with ice in the spring.  Since I was by myself, I did not climb down into the cave...but maybe sometime in the future if i am in this area again I would consider it.  After putzing around the ice caves for a while, I continued over the ice caves and followed the trail to the cascades.

cascades

While I didn't pass anyone on the trail, only saw a couple at the ice caves, there were quite a few people at the cascades, including photographers with tripods all set up for the perfect picture...which also made my picture a little tricky because I didn't want someone in it.  I stood there and appreciated nature and the quietness of it all for a few minutes then turned around and followed the same path I took up back down to the parking lot.

When I got to the bridge, I took the other path, there was a nice picnic area and continuing that a little more.  I wondered if I would be able to see the cascades from another angle, so I crossed over and climbed up this rock to realize it would bring me back to the ice caves but from another trail, so I turned around and went to the car.

The trail was short, I am thinking a mile or less round trip.

Weller Lake Trail

Weller Lake Trail (#1986) is between Independence Pass and Aspen on Highway 82.  The parking lot can fit about 10-15 or so cars and it was free...but there was no restroom.

There is a sign pointing you to the trail...but there was no information about it...I went into this hike blind - not sure how long or hard it would be.  This short hike at about .6 miles one way has a bit of switchbacks as it gains 300 feet.  Figure about 20 minutes or so to get to the top.  The dirt trail goes through pine and aspen trees and finishes at Weller Lake.  

The far end of the lake was this amazing green patch of grass that really stood out as did the boulders and tree parts where the trail drops you off.  I climbed over the rocks and trees to get closer to the lake for pictures.

The trail was quite popular, and I was lucky to get a parking spot.  I passed a few people on the trail in both directions - but many people seemed to hang around the aspens near the parking lot taking pictures...I figured they too were just driving around and saw the sign but were hesitant to hike a trail without information....and who doesn't want family pictures with the golden aspens?

No one was swimming in the lake, but I've read websites that people do that...so if you are there on a nice day, bring lunch and hang out by the lake for a little bit.  

I was here on September 28th..an overcast and slightly chilly day around 11 am.  The view was not as spectacular as many other hikes I've been on...but it was pretty enough for a short hike.

End of Summer Hike - Estes Park / RMNP

The mountains are what drew me to Colorado, but yet, I haven't really spent to much time within them yet.  I was fortunate that my new friend invited me up to Estes Park for the weekend.  She selected this particular weekend because she hoped it was going to be the peak of the aspen's changing colors...and we were not disappointed.  The bright yellow leaves mixed among the green pines is a beautiful site, and one that captured my heart 4 years ago when I visited Colorado.  The three of us spend the weekend doing a few hikes, driving part of the Rocky Mountain National Park and walking through downtown Estes Park (what a cute town!).

Gem Lake

The first hike we did was Gem Lake.  This 1.8 mile hike only gained 910 feet, but man, those steps towards the end were deep.  The trail was nice, there were a few small aspen groves that changed color and some neat rock formations along the way.  We stopped here for a bit to appreciate the scenery and the perfect weather day.  We did not keep going to the balanced rock, but went back down because we wanted to drive around Rocky Mountain National Park for a bit...maybe see some Elks because it was mating season.  And we did.  We saw a nice small heard, and they were getting close so the park ranger started to have everyone go roadside...and smart thinking, within 5 minutes the elk were were we were standing.  It was neat to see the bull with his ladies and watching them interact.

Alberta Falls Trail

The next day we headed into the RMNP again for a hike.  We parked in a large parking lot and took the bus to the trail head (what a great feature...so you don't have to double back to your car...but keep going to the next bus area).  We went up to Alberta Falls and Bear Lake.  The park had amazing aspen color and we lucked out again for having such amazing weather.

August Supermoon

We hiked North Table Mountain in hopes for a supermoon over Denver.  The weather was tricky, it sprinkled a little during the day and thick clouds in the evening...as we were hiking up, I was not sure if we were going to have luck or not.

The hike itself wasn't too bad, considering I've been here only 10 days, people on the walk warned me that I probably won't acclimate for a few more weeks...but I did well.  This was the most elevation gain I walked since I've been here, and even still it wasn't that much.  I kept up with the group nicely, but at one point, I started to sweat profusely and it wouldn't stop....then it did. Once I reached a certain point, the sweat stopped and I just felt better.  It probably didn't help that we had dinner before doing this.

Supermoon from North Table Mountain - looking towards Denver

So we find a place along the trail that looked out over the city and set up.  Then we waited and waited.  Finally, the moon made an appearance, but with the thick clouds, I was not able to get a better shot of the moon.

getting out there

Since I got to Colorado, I've spent so much time on the computer researching apartment complexes, looking for jobs, seeing the apartments.  There was so much to do in a short period of time...important things that would allow me to stay out here.  Things that will decide where I will live.

I've spent hours at the library researching and applying for select jobs (I should be applying for more, but right now it is to the few that really sound like what I want to do...and have the potential to pay me on my low-end minimum).  Once I get more desperate, I'll expand and apply for additional (temporary) jobs.

Flatirons at 11:00 PM....side streak is flashlights from hikers

I needed to start getting outside and meeting people.  I signed up for about 10 meetup groups and had my first outing to photograph the flatirons using the moonlight.  I never shot in manual mode, so I learned quite a bit not only of where controls were but also the techniques (which I still barely understand).  I look forward to doing this again, probably by myself to start to understand ISO, aperture and shutter times a little better.

I had a few cool pictures where the shutter speed was less and you were able to see the stars - which is neat too.

I hope that other meets will let me talk to people a little more.  This group was small and everyone was focused on the work - taking pictures - that there was some talk, but not enough for me to get friendly enough with anyone...yet.

Westmoreland Sanctuary

Westmoreland Sanctuary is a 625 acre nature preserve nestled in Bedford.  There are 13 short trails that total 7.5 miles.  The trail map is easy to understand and the 'hikes' were easy compared to others in the area, but still enjoyable.  Would be a great place to bring children for them to start appreciating nature.

We saw fallen trees with these amazing, vibrant orange fungus growths.  There were many large mushrooms throughout the trails. 


Westmoreland Sanctuary
260 Chestnut Ridge Road
Bedford Corners,  NY 10549
914-666-8448
http://www.westmorelandsanctuary.org/

Meyer Nature Preserve

Rockefeller State Park Preserve

The Rockefeller State Park Preserve is located in Pleasantville and its operated by the New York State Parks office.  My first time here I was unsure what to expect, there was a $6 parking fee to park in the lot which was near the small visitor center, small museum, and restrooms.

I got out of the car dressed in sneakers but a regular tank top and capri's.  Everyone else was wearing sneakers, short running shorts and athletic tops.  I felt very out of place.  I grabbed a trail map and began my walk...yes, I walked everyone else was running.  I took the Old Sleepy Hollow Trail to get to the other trails, however, the trail crossed a main road where I saw many cars parked on the side - allowing free parking.  I continued and walked about 5 miles on various trails (Eagle Hill, Thirteen Bridges, Pocanatico River and another one) before heading back.  I was hoping the Eagle Hill Summit would have provided a better view of the Rockefeller Estate and the river but since it was the summer, the trees were too full to see much of anything. I did get a glimpse of the Tapanzee Bridge.

It was a very pleasant walk, and I would go back to walk on some of the other trails that I was not able to see when I was there this time.  For more information, visit the Rockefeller State Park Preserve website.